My ski sounds like the prop is rubbing at low rpm when I run it up on the trailer. It is an ugly sound and it makes me feel like a novice when im trying to show off at the boatramp. I have been searching for this dirty sound, The wear ring is sweet and the prop has heaps more then the minimum clearance. I have replaced the pump bearings and both the drive shafts just in case it was the splines geting worn. I replaced the bulkhead housing and bearings with new ones but it still makes the prop rubbing noise! When i run the motor with the pump out the noise is gone. When i turn the prop in the wear ring there is no noise. Dangers ski sounds like a crisp new dirt bike why does mine sound like a rooted gearbox? :?:
have you checked the back engine mounts are not broken. I had the same with the blaster and the back left mount was stuffed.
obviously if it does not do it with the pump out its the pump so recheck the bearings unless its just resonationg through the deck of the ski
Flan had a good point tho about the engine mount i am running one of my old ones in the rear left its seen better days maybe it could be the couplings hitting together although it sounds like its coming from down the back. The prop turns pretty easy in the pump and the bearings are only 6mths old it does have that flogged out screeching sound tho
My guess is an improperly shimmed pump which is causing binding on the intermediate housing/bearing which causes the long shaft to vibrate inside the short shaft......
Taken from a guy on X-H20: 1) With both the engine and midshaft removed install pump with bolts snug, but not super tight. Look inside the engine compartment at the drive shaft sticking through the hole. Your goal here is to get that drive shaft to be as dead center in the hole as possible. You do this by adding shims to the two rear mounts of the pump. Never add shims to the front two mounting points of the pump. Once the shaft is a dead center as possible, install the pump with all cooling lines. Your done in the pump area. 2) Slide the midshaft onto the drive shaft. Push it as far on as possible. If there are any gaps between the mid shaft and the bulk head, add shims to each side accordingly to fill up the gaps. Because there are no bolts installed there will some gappage no matter how hard you press it on by hand. If there is an even gap all the way around the mid shaft, then no shims are necessary. Once gaps have been filled by shims, bolt the mid shaft on. 3) Next is the engine. Slide the engine into place WITHOUT the rubber damper. The first stage here is to try to get the engine height figured out. Left and right alignment is negligible at this point. You want to add shims accordingly to each mount so that you can take a credit card and place it on the top of both couplers and have that card sit even. Once you have that figured out, remember or mark the position of the shims, pull the engine forward, slide in the rubber damper, add your shims back, and just barely snug each engine mount bolt. You'll now twist the engine so that when you place a card on the sides of the couplers, the card will sit flush on both sides. You can also use a variety of measuring tools to determine whether each side is aligned properly instead of a card. Between each movement remember to snug atleast one bolt back down before you let go of the engine, otherwise you'll just loose the amount you have moved the engine. Once left and right alignment has been figured out, torque down all your bolts. 4) You're done. Drink a beer. And remember you should have installed all these bolts with anti-seize.
Also make sure your rubber coupler dampner is in good nick and fits tight... a loose dampner can also cause a vibration that causes noise...
Longshoot I know you said you have checked your wear ring/prop clearance but rip it out again and check for any small burnt patches on the ring. I had a square nose that had electrolises between the wear ring and the housing (i found this out later) it would cause a hi spot. I could turn the pump by hand no noise but in the ski it sounded flasher than the hardest house music so being a tight ass i chucked it in the lathe to give it clearance all the way through.Because of the crustey stuff still growing like gorse the noise would come back again in a time frame of couple of days to a couple of weeks.A new wear ring from the man in Rotoroa sorted it.
the man in rotorua fucked my last wear ring machined it to small and off center i now use and have stainless housings avaliable for no extra $130 will out last life of ski ( solas )
I have to agree with Terry, the man in Rotorua is $250 and unless you use a brand new prop, the housing is machined to the prop. $380 for the Solas is the way to go...
